109/ Am I Wearing The Right Bra?
Everything you wanted to know about bras from the fittings experts at Melmira, the Toronto-based, multi-generational intimates boutique.
Walking into Toronto lingerie boutique Melmira back in 2013, Amie Heenan, co-owner of the destination store, said to me with a knowing smile, “I think you’ll be surprised by what size you are.”
Whatever could she mean?
As it turned out, simply by looking at me in my GAP scoop neck tee, she knew that the 36B/34C I’d been sized at again and again by staff at stores like Victoria’s Secret was incorrect, and that I was actually a 32D/DD:
This blew my mind. I had an inkling my bras weren’t fitting quite right, but despite much trial-and-error, I couldn’t pinpoint the issue. Did I need to tighten my shoulder straps — or did I need to loosen them and tighten the back band instead? Should my breasts be fully enclosed in the cup, or was a hint of buoyant bosom the proper fit? All the while, I didn’t even consider D or DD within the realm of possibility. (Six years post-breastfeeding, I’ve settled into a 32C. Yes, they can shrink.)
My experience at Melmira that day informed a fundamental principle of styling that I carry with me to this day — that when it comes to how your clothes sit on your body, undergarments matter. When I begin closet editing with clients, the topic of bras often comes up early-on in the appointment: we’ll be trying on a blouse; I look, pause and think; then I’ll adjust a bra strap. Suddenly, the top sits differently.
Some of you are on top of your bra game, not only for the practical work they do to keep the girls in place and relieve back pain, but because you appreciate their beauty. Others hold on to stretched out, frayed bras far past their effective date (this was me for a long time, hands up in the comments please!).
Given their importance, I thought I’d bring in the ladies from Melmira themselves to answer all of the bra questions I’ve had over the years because you’ve probably had them, too. If you haven’t, I know their knowledge will have you looking at your bras in a different light.
During our interview, we chatted about:
Why you can’t define yourself by your bra size
Why lace and seams > moulded
The most common signs of ill-fitting bras we both see in clients
Signs of a good-quality bra
Favourite brands for specific needs
Working with women who have undergone mastectomies and breast reconstruction
Care instructions
Note: this is not a sponsored post! These are the women I have turned to throughout the last decade as my body went through enormous changes over two rounds of pregnancy and breastfeeding. They’re who I refer all my Toronto-based friends and clients to, including those dealing with concerns such as mastectomies and breast reconstruction. Melmira also specializes in underwear, shapewear (Janira is their favourite!) and swimwear, although I’ll be focusing on bras for this newsletter.
Melmira is currently owned by the four Heenan sisters, Amie (46), Leah (44), Holly (40), and Marni (39). The North Toronto boutique was opened in 1992 by their mother, Melanie, and her friend Mira (hence the portmanteau Mel-Mira). Melanie’s know-how was passed down from her own mother, who owned the first fittings boutique of its kind in Canada, in Regina, Saskatchewan where the family originates from.
There’s a palpable difference in your experience when shopping at a family-owned, brick-and-mortar business where expertise has been passed down through three generations vis à vis the rotating door of staff at global chains and online monoliths. The sisters have been in the thick of serving clients on the floor for almost 20 years and have so much knowledge to share!
Your sales floor belies the fact that you’re one of the busiest boutiques in the city, yet the Bay or Victoria’s Secret it is not! What is the thought process behind your philosophy of not putting any (!) product out on the floor?
The idea is that within 5-10 minutes of chatting with a fitter, you’ll have a curated selection of styles that suit your taste and lifestyle. Trying to select from off-the-rack can be a frustrating and discouraging experience. Working together with an expert who knows our inventory inside-out gives you the opportunity to try things that you wouldn’t have otherwise considered. Your fitter will put you at ease so you can focus on what makes you feel good while she takes care of the rest!
Your sizing approach is to simply use your thumb and index finger to feel the ribcage and eyeball for breast size and torso length. Why don’t you use a measuring tape? How do you feel so confident about getting it right?
It’s so important to understand that you can’t define yourself by a size. Depending on the brand, country of origin, and even colour, you can wear a different size.
When I go to the stockroom for you, I could be pulling five different bras and they could all be different sizes. You could have the same measurements as five other women and all of you could need different bras based on breast tissue, personality, lifestyle, and comfort zone!
While bra fitting is a science, part of the art is understanding how different brands and styles fit. The crux of our approach is how well we are trained on our inventory and listening to our customer.